Paul Franson

Ever visitor to Napa knows about Robert Mondavi, Beaulieu and Beringer wineries, but some of the wineries that are most fun to visit are little known and far off the beaten track. Almost all require appointments, both because they’re small and remote, and because Napa County has imposed that requirement on all new wineries since 1990.

Some of the best destinations are out-of-the-way areas containing a number of interesting wineries, and a few individual wineries are so fascinating they deserve their own pilgrimage. Many of the best destinations are in the mountains, even on their peaks, and one of the most fascinating is Kuleto Estate Family Vineyards overlooking Lake Hennessy reservoir in the hills east of Rutherford.

This is definitely one of those wineries you must call first: It’s far up Sage Canyon Road, there’s a keypad lock on the gate and no telephone to the office. Your cell phone won’t work, either.

Get past the gate, and you drive 5 miles up a winding, single-lane dirt road, nervously looking at the mirrors posted on curves for a giant UPS truck rushing down the hill.

Once at the top, however, it’s worth the trip. Kuleto’s site is truly unique. The famed restaurateur, who owns Boulevard, Jardinière and Farallon in San Francisco and the Martini House in St. Helena, bought 600 acres on the top of the unnamed mountain in 1992, and has planted 100 acres of grapes, some in amazingly steep sites between 850 and 1450 ft. of altitude.

The site lies just across Sage Canyon from famed Pritchard Hill, home of cult favorites such as Colgin, David Arthur and Bryant. It’s includes some of the most picturesque vineyards in Napa County, and it is also one of the best places to grow quality grapes. It’s cooled by breezes from the 800-acre reservoir below and the soil is a combination of fractured shale and limestone than ensures very low vigor for the vines – and resulting high intensity of flavor. Kuleto harvests as little as 1 ton per acre of vines; Napa Valley’s average is about 3.5 tons per acre.

Beside growing fine Cabernet Sauvignon and other grapes, Kuleto planted vegetables, fruit and orchards for his table and winery functions, and raises chickens and sheep as well.

He first constructed a rustic stone lodge as his home, and then he built a complementary winery nearby. It took 3 years to get the permit and 3 more years to build because of the difficult location, but is now fully operational.

The winery produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Zinfandel as well as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir plus a little Sangiovese and rosé.

To visit Kuleto Estate Family Vineyards, call (707) 963-9750. Tours are given twice a day and take 1-1/2 hour. They cost $25 per person including tasting. The winery is at 2470 Sage Canyon Road and the web site is www.kuletoestate.com.

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