Paul Franson

In spite of acres of writing to the contrary, there’s really only one rule of matching wine with food: “Drink what you like,” notes Annette Shafer, author of the Wine Sense Diet.

That aside, most of what has been written about wine with food focuses around meat: Writers seem to assume that’s the important item in the meal. More and more, however, diners are adopting the Mediterranean model, with separate courses including some that don’t include meat. And increasingly, even meat-eaters don’t feel they need to eat meat with every meal. Yet little has been written about pairing wine with vegetarian food — except the common warning to avoid drinking wine with asparagus or artichokes. And even that prohibition isn’t absolute, as you’ll read.

“Vegetable” may be a misnomer, in fact, for many of the bases and flavors of vegetarian dishes are contributed by grains and dairy products. And vegetables and vegetarian courses range from exceptionally bland, like plain polenta or rice, to spicy Indian, Asian, African and Latin American dishes that challenge most wines.

In general, however, most vegetarian foods are more subtle than meats. Few can stand up to a big Napa Cabernet with its high tannins and alcohol — as few meats can, for that matter.

Likewise, only rich courses laced with cream and cheese match the typical scrumptious California Chardonnay with its rich, buttery, vanilla flavors and a touch of sugar. Those Chardonnays wines might better serve as aperitifs or even  dessert.

The winners in whites

The best whites for vegetable courses tend to be crisp, high-acid wines, often with subtle vegetal or herbal overtones. Many of these wines, interestingly, aren’t very tasty on their own, but really should be paired with food.

Sauvignon Blanc is probably the most popular example. It can be a classic Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé from France, a lean California or Washington version that hasn’t be over-oaked and put through malolactic fermentation. Chile and Australia make some good Sauvignon Blancs, but they can be a bit rich if they’re grown in the usual warm climate. Much Chilean Sauvignon Blanc is actually another grape, Sauvignonasse, a fruitier varietal that pairs well with vegetables.

The “in” source of Sauvignon Blanc at present is New Zealand, where the cool climate ensures crisp wines with vegetal or herbal characteristics. Some of the wines, in fact, taste a bit grassy or even like asparagus, a problem U.S. producers in the Monterey wine region once fought to tame by ruthlessly removing foliage and keeping the vines thirsty.

Sauvignon Blanc tends to do best with “green” flavors from green vegetables, but it’s difficult to think of a vegetable course that wouldn’t match it except those with strong flavors of wild or dried mushrooms or tomatoes, or those rich with cream and cheese. It can even stand up to spicy foods, though Gewurztraminer (or beer) can be an even better complement to Asian cuisine.

Other versatile whites include Rhône varietals like Viognier, Marsanne and Rousanne as well as dry local varieties from Italy and Spain such as Pinot Grigio/Gris, Tocai Fiuliano, Albariño plus other wines usually not marketed under grape names. Chenin Blanc has largely fallen out of favor in the United States, but if you can locate a dry version, it can be great with food, too. Likewise, Riesling, which is making a dramatic comeback, is an excellent food wine – as long as it’s dry or not too sweet.

Dry rosés are the perfect match for many vegetable- and grain-based dishes, particularly those with Mediterranean antecedents. Most “white” Zinfandels are too sweet to match with food other than traditional barbecue, though they can be refreshing with sweet and spicy food. If you like them, drink away!

Reds pair well with heartier food

The virtues that ideal red food wines share are fruit, acidity and flavor without overwhelmingly tannin. Tannic wines like many Cabernets and even Merlots clash with many vegetables, though they can complement grilled foods. Many Merlots, however, are so fruity that they overwhelm other flavors and some are quite sweet. They might work with North African and Middle Eastern dishes that incorporate those elements.

High acidity, rarely found in cool-weather grapes like Cabernet grown in warm climates, is ideal with foods featuring acidic flavors like tomatoes and citrus.

Among reds, the most versatile varieties are Rhône varieties and blends featuring Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignane, plus Sangiovese-based Chianti and other grapes grown along the northern Mediterranean from Greece to Spain (and Portugal, too, though it doesn’t touch the Med). Spicy Zinfandels are perfect with rich, often sweetish Italian dishes but many Zinfandels are so rich and alcoholic that they’re best saved for after dinner.

Many vegetable dishes incorporate tomatoes and mushrooms, which both lend rich flavors of their own and contain natural glutamates that enhance the tastes of other ingredients. They are naturally complemented by traditional Spanish, southern French and Italian red varieties.

Pinot Noirs can be quite versatile. They tend to be elegant and refined, natural partners for the sophisticated cooking of Burgundy but you’ll find few traditional vegetarian dishes in that and other cool climates. Pinots can’t stand up to strong sauces and acid-foods based on tomatoes.

Grilling vegetables (as with meat) brings out complex sugars and smoky flavors that work especially well with red wine. Ironically, oaky Chardonnays work with many grilled foods, and many American Pinots Noirs exhibit complementary smoky flavors. They also pair well with earthy, root vegetables. A preliminary blanching before grilling ensures that tougher vegetables are fully cooked and enhances color and flavor.

The bad boys of wine pairing

Two vegetables that can definitely be bad matches for wine are asparagus and artichokes. Some authorities suggest skipping wine with either, but the secret is in the preparation. Young asparagus shoots are tasty raw, but they’re terrible with wine, unless paired with a lemon-based vinaigrette or sauce (no vinegar, which clashes with wine). Even cooked asparagus is hopeless unless you grill it or add hollandaise or lemon.

The true disaster of wine pairing, however, can be artichokes. Thin-sliced young ‘chokes served raw with lemon are fine, but the classic steamed artichoke with butter can make even a wonderful wine taste metallic. With hollandaise or lemony mayonnaise, it can be fine, and southern Italians who love artichokes long ago learned to pair them with acid tomatoes (and garlic!) to overcome the problem. Sautéing, grilling or frying artichokes seems to overcome the problem, too.

In sum, though Americans traditionally reach for Merlot or Cabernet and Chardonnay to drink with dinner, they’re usually not the best match with vegetable dishes. The most widely available stars are Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. They’re better complements to the food, and often less expensive to boot.       

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